Lucerna Palace is one of the most fascinating buildings in Prague’s New Town. Hidden behind relatively restrained façades near Wenceslas Square, the complex contains an elegant passage, a historic cinema, concert halls, shops, cafés and one of David Černý’s best-known sculptures.
Known in Czech as Palác Lucerna, it was built during the early 20th century as Prague was becoming a modern European capital. The building combined culture, entertainment and commerce beneath one roof – a remarkably ambitious concept at the time.
Lucerna is also closely connected with the Havel family. It was created by engineer and entrepreneur Vácslav Havel, the grandfather of Václav Havel, the playwright, dissident and later president of Czechoslovakia and the Czech Republic.
Many visitors enter only to photograph the upside-down horse hanging in the arcade. The sculpture is certainly worth seeing, but Lucerna’s architecture, cinema and family history make the whole complex one of the most rewarding places to explore around Wenceslas Square.
What does Lucerna mean?
The Czech word lucerna means “lantern.” It is pronounced approximately LOO-tser-na.
The name suits a building associated with light, cinema and evening entertainment. A lantern also appears as a recurring visual symbol within the complex.
Although it is called a palace, Lucerna was not built as a royal or aristocratic residence. In Central European cities, the word “palace” was also used for grand modern commercial and cultural buildings. Lucerna was conceived as a multi-purpose urban complex rather than a private home.
Where is Lucerna Palace?
Lucerna Palace stands in Prague’s New Town, only a short walk from Wenceslas Square. Its main public passage connects Vodičkova Street with Štěpánská Street, while another branch leads toward the square.
This location places Lucerna within Prague’s historic network of covered passages. These arcades allow pedestrians to cross large city blocks through interior courtyards, shopping galleries and connecting corridors.
The entrances can be easy to overlook. Lucerna does not reveal its scale from the street – the building opens gradually as you walk inside.
The history of Lucerna Palace
Construction of Lucerna Palace began in 1907 and continued in stages until 1920. The project was led by Vácslav Havel, a civil engineer, developer and entrepreneur with an ambitious vision for modern Prague.
The complex was technologically innovative. Reinforced concrete was still a relatively new construction method, and Lucerna became one of the earliest major Prague buildings to use it on such a scale. This structural system made it possible to create large halls and interconnected interior spaces that would have been difficult to achieve with traditional masonry alone.
The project evolved during construction. Plans changed as technical challenges and new opportunities emerged, and the final complex became a mixture of passage, entertainment centre, cultural venue and commercial building.
When completed, Lucerna offered Prague residents a modern world of cinema, dancing, concerts, cafés, shops and social events. Its combination of functions anticipated the multi-purpose urban complexes that would become common later in the 20th century.
Who built Lucerna Palace?
The driving force behind Lucerna was Vácslav Havel, whose first name was spelled with an “s” to distinguish the older family form. He acted as investor, organiser and builder of the project.
Vácslav Havel belonged to a prominent Prague entrepreneurial family. His descendants remained closely connected with Czech culture and public life. His grandson, also named Václav Havel, became internationally known as a playwright and dissident under communism. After the Velvet Revolution, he became the last president of Czechoslovakia and the first president of the Czech Republic.
Lucerna therefore connects two very different chapters of Czech history: the confident modernisation of Prague before the First World War and the democratic transformation associated with Václav Havel at the end of the communist era.
Lucerna and the Havel family
The palace is only one part of the Havel family’s contribution to Prague’s cultural landscape. Vácslav Havel’s son, Miloš Havel, became an important figure in the Czechoslovak film industry and helped develop the Barrandov Film Studios.
The family’s activities linked property development, cinema, theatre and modern entertainment. This background also shaped the cultural world in which the younger Václav Havel grew up.
After the communist takeover in 1948, Lucerna was taken from the family by the state. Following the fall of communism, the complex was returned through restitution. Its history therefore mirrors the broader story of private property, nationalisation and restitution in 20th-century Czechoslovakia.
The Lucerna Passage
The passage is the most accessible part of the complex and can usually be entered without a ticket. It combines decorative early-20th-century architecture with the everyday movement of people between surrounding streets.
Shopfronts, staircases, balconies, glass surfaces and overhead lights create the atmosphere of a small indoor city. The passage is not arranged as one straight corridor. Its turns, branches and changes in height make the interior feel larger and more mysterious than expected.
Lucerna belongs to a wider system of passages around Wenceslas Square. Walking through these routes reveals a characteristic feature of Prague’s New Town: some of its most interesting public spaces are hidden inside city blocks rather than displayed along the main streets.
David Černý’s upside-down horse
The most photographed object in Lucerna Palace is Kůň, meaning “Horse,” by Czech artist David Černý. The sculpture shows Saint Wenceslas sitting astride the belly of a dead horse suspended upside down from the ceiling.
The composition directly refers to Josef Václav Myslbek’s famous Saint Wenceslas Monument at the upper end of nearby Wenceslas Square. In the traditional monument, the patron saint of the Czech lands sits upright on a proud horse and is surrounded by other Czech saints. Černý turns this solemn national image into something absurd, uncomfortable and darkly comic.
The horse hangs by its legs with its tongue extending from its mouth, while Wenceslas remains seated with apparent dignity. This contrast is the source of much of the sculpture’s unsettling humour.
What does the upside-down horse mean?
David Černý does not always provide one fixed interpretation of his work. The upside-down horse is commonly read as a parody of official monuments, political authority and the way national symbols can lose their meaning.
Its location matters. Only a few minutes away, the original Saint Wenceslas Monument has served as a backdrop for demonstrations, commemorations and major events in Czech history. Inside Lucerna, the same heroic composition appears reversed and ridiculous.
The sculpture may also be understood as a characteristically Czech response to authority – sceptical, ironic and unwilling to treat national imagery as untouchable. Part of its success lies in its ambiguity. It can be funny, disturbing, political or simply bizarre, depending on the viewer.
Rather than searching for one definitive explanation, compare it with the original monument on Wenceslas Square and consider what changes when a symbol of stability is literally turned upside down.
Who was Saint Wenceslas?
Saint Wenceslas was a 10th-century Duke of Bohemia who became the patron saint of the Czech lands. After his murder, he was remembered as an ideal Christian ruler and eventually became one of the country’s most important historical symbols.
The dignified equestrian monument on Wenceslas Square presents him as a protector of the Czech nation. Černý’s sculpture depends on the viewer recognising this original image. Seeing both works makes the joke – and the criticism – much clearer.
The historical Wenceslas was a duke, although later tradition treated him as an eternal ruler, and English speakers know him as the “Good King Wenceslas” of the Christmas carol.
Lucerna Cinema
Lucerna Cinema opened in 1909 and has remained one of Prague’s most important film venues. It is among the oldest continuously operating cinemas in Europe and preserves an atmosphere very different from that of a modern multiplex.
The main auditorium includes decorative balconies, elaborate lighting and a ceremonial sense of space. Watching a film here feels like entering the early history of cinema, when going to the pictures was a major social occasion.
The cinema has hosted premieres, festivals and important moments in Czech film culture. It continues to screen films today, although programme times, languages and ticket arrangements should be checked before visiting.
Even travellers who do not attend a screening can appreciate how central cinema was to Lucerna’s original identity as a modern entertainment palace.
The Great Hall
The Great Hall of Lucerna is one of Prague’s best-known historic entertainment venues. Its large interior has been used for concerts, balls, conferences, sporting events and public gatherings.
An unusual feature is that the hall lies below street level. Visitors entering from the passage descend toward a space that is much larger than the exterior of the building suggests.
The hall’s design reflects Lucerna’s flexible purpose. It was intended to accommodate different kinds of events rather than function only as a theatre or ballroom. Over the decades, it has hosted Czech and international performers as well as graduations, festivals and social occasions.
Access normally depends on the event programme, so the Great Hall cannot always be visited as a conventional tourist attraction.
Lucerna Music Bar and other venues
The complex includes additional cultural and entertainment spaces, among them Lucerna Music Bar. Together with the cinema and Great Hall, these venues keep Lucerna active rather than turning it into a static architectural monument.
This continuing cultural use is important to the building’s atmosphere. People still come here for films, concerts, dances and meetings, much as earlier generations did. Lucerna remains part of Prague’s daily cultural life.
Individual businesses and opening hours can change, so visitors planning to attend an event should consult the current programme of the relevant venue.
The architecture of Lucerna Palace
Lucerna was built during a period of rapid architectural change, and it does not fit neatly into one style. Its interiors combine late Art Nouveau decoration with early modern construction and functional commercial design.
Important details to notice include:
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the glass-roofed passage and its lantern-like lighting
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decorative metalwork and mosaic surfaces
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balconies overlooking the central arcade
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early use of reinforced concrete
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staircases connecting different levels of the complex
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the contrast between elegant ornament and practical commercial spaces
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views into neighbouring passages and courtyards
The building is sometimes described as Art Nouveau, but that label tells only part of the story. Lucerna stands at the transition between decorative turn-of-the-century architecture and a more modern approach based on new materials, technology and urban functions.
Why Prague has so many passages
Covered passages became popular in European cities during the 19th and early 20th centuries. They protected shoppers from bad weather, created valuable commercial space and provided shortcuts through large urban blocks.
Prague developed a particularly interesting network around Wenceslas Square. Lucerna connects with nearby streets and sits close to other passages that can be combined into an informal walking route.
These interiors reveal the New Town’s vertical and layered character. Public life does not take place only at street level – it continues through arcades, courtyards, staircases, cinemas and underground halls.
What to see near Lucerna Palace
Lucerna is surrounded by several important New Town attractions:
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Wenceslas Square – the historic boulevard associated with major events in Czech history
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Saint Wenceslas Monument – the original monument parodied by Černý’s horse
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National Museum – dominating the upper end of Wenceslas Square
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Franciscan Garden – a quiet public garden hidden behind nearby buildings
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Church of Our Lady of the Snows – known for its exceptionally high Gothic choir
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Jungmann Square – connecting the New Town with the Old Town
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Štěpánská Street – one of the historic routes crossing this part of the New Town
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Rotating Head of Franz Kafka – another popular work by David Černý near Národní třída
How to visit Lucerna Palace
Enter the passage from Vodičkova Street or Štěpánská Street and allow yourself to follow its different branches. The upside-down horse hangs in the central arcade and is visible from both the floor and the surrounding balcony.
For the strongest comparison, visit the traditional Saint Wenceslas Monument on Wenceslas Square before or after seeing Černý’s sculpture. The walk between them takes only a few minutes.
The passage itself is normally free to enter, but the cinema, concerts and other events require tickets. Parts of the complex may have different opening times, and access can be affected by private events.
Allow around 20–30 minutes for the passage and sculpture. Stay longer if you stop at a café, attend a screening or explore several nearby passages.
When is the best time to visit Lucerna Palace?
Lucerna can be atmospheric at almost any time of day. Morning is usually better for examining the architecture and photographing the sculpture with fewer people. Later in the day, the cafés, cinema and entertainment venues give the complex more energy.
Evening offers the best sense of Lucerna’s original purpose as a palace of light and entertainment. However, visitors interested primarily in architecture may prefer daylight, when the glass roof and decorative details are easier to see.
Is Lucerna Palace worth visiting?
Yes. Lucerna Palace brings together several stories that define modern Prague: technological ambition, the rise of cinema, the Havel family, communist nationalisation, post-communist restitution and the provocative art of David Černý.
It is also a useful reminder that Prague’s attractions are not confined to churches, castles and medieval squares. Lucerna represents the city’s early-20th-century confidence – a period when new forms of architecture and entertainment changed how people experienced urban life.
The upside-down horse may draw you inside, but the palace itself is the real discovery.
Frequently asked questions about Lucerna Palace
Is Lucerna Palace free to enter?
The public passage and David Černý’s upside-down horse can normally be seen free of charge. Films, concerts and other events require tickets.
Where is the upside-down horse in Prague?
The sculpture hangs inside the Lucerna Palace passage near Wenceslas Square. The complex can be entered from Vodičkova Street or Štěpánská Street.
Who created the upside-down horse?
Czech artist David Černý created the sculpture, officially titled Kůň, or Horse.
What does the upside-down horse represent?
It parodies the famous Saint Wenceslas Monument on nearby Wenceslas Square. It is often interpreted as a criticism of political authority, heroic national imagery or the empty use of public symbols, but the artist leaves room for different readings.
Who built Lucerna Palace?
Engineer and entrepreneur Vácslav Havel led the project. He was the grandfather of playwright, dissident and president Václav Havel.
When was Lucerna Palace built?
Construction took place in stages between 1907 and 1920.
Is Lucerna Palace Art Nouveau?
Lucerna contains Art Nouveau elements, but its architecture also points toward early modernism. Its innovative reinforced-concrete structure and multi-purpose design make it difficult to place within a single style.
Can you watch a film at Lucerna Cinema?
Yes. Lucerna Cinema continues to operate and screens films and festival programmes. Check the current schedule and language information before buying a ticket.
How far is Lucerna Palace from Wenceslas Square?
It is only a few minutes away on foot. A branch of the passage leads in the direction of the square, while the main entrances are on Vodičkova and Štěpánská streets.
How long do you need at Lucerna Palace?
Around 20–30 minutes is sufficient for the passage, architecture and upside-down horse. A cinema screening, concert, café visit or wider tour of Prague’s passages requires more time.
Discover Lucerna and Prague’s New Town with a local guide
Lucerna Palace is easy to enter but difficult to understand at a glance. The upside-down horse becomes far more meaningful when compared with the original monument outside, while the building’s architecture opens a larger story about the Havel family and Prague’s transformation into a modern city.
Explore the New Town with a local guide to discover its hidden passages, unusual artworks and the historical events behind its familiar streets. Check our Prague walking tours to see more of the city beyond the obvious landmarks.